Red and Black Week -- Makeup!

Well I have made the promised (or any way mentioned) makeup tutorials, but the sound on my camera was wonky so they are not narrated. Never fear there is extensive narration below!  I also could not get my video editing software (any of the three programs!) to add a soundtrack.  I swear I have successfully done this before *grumble, grumble*.  At the bottom is my suggested listening is my suggested listening (and yes, my musical tastes really are this all over the map).

*Simultaneous disclaimer and self-promotion*: I once unsuccessfully tried my hand at the world of door to door makeup lady sales and still have a mark shop.  I do not actually make money off this venture, and mostly keep my rep status for the discount, so if I recommend a mark product it is genuinely because I think it is the best of a certain type or best in price class.  For instance their eye shadows really are the best I have used and I like their eco-friendly packing and the customized palettes (although they keep narrowing the color range, what is up with that?).  Their brushes are the best I have used that cost less than 20-50$, they even genuinely compete with ones in those price class.

First I created a tutorial that simulates the classic fifties glamor look, using red and black. I also managed to find a red and black top in my wardrobe and quickly remembered why I never wear it.  No top should be that much trouble to keep covering one's bra.
The video starts post foundation, so I will just say that this look requires even skintone and a very matte finish.  In summer when my heavier make up melts off (and in this video, therefore) I use a green primer, Clinique redness solutions daily protective base with sunscreen in this case, and Coty Airspun loose powder, which is a great but hard to find very matte powder, usually CVS has it.

Start by applying neutral eye makeup with a good rounded eye shadow brush. I use a matte ivory/off-white above the crease, although I suggest using whatever shade is about 2 shades lighter than your own skintone (this is mark eye shadow in whisper), and a shimmer-y pink below the crease (fairy dust is the shade name) which is still subtle but gives the eyes a little pop. The light eye makeup if both classic '50's and will make the upcoming black line look clean and dramatic.Using an angled eye shadow brush pick up a subtle plum (plum velvet) and lightly brush it just into the crease to add depth.
 Now that the shadow is done I'll draw the line, (never do this first or it will just be covered over with shadow). I am using L'Oreal HIP gel liner, which I have always found at Ulta and most drugstores,  with an angled eyeliner brush (the one that comes with, unlike most free brushes inside makeup packaging, is pretty good, but short-handled so using a professional brush makes it a little easier to use, mine was taken off my mom during a de-stash so I have no idea who makes a good one, but Sephora pro brushes are usually a safe bet). If you have never tried gel or cream liner I think you're in for a pleasant surprise. It is easy to put on, long wearing, and provides a really clean line.
Scrap one side of the brush across the liner and scrape any excess off onto the edge of the pot. Pull the edge of your eye taught, and just draw the line across in a smooth movement, then go back and fill in any missing spots (gel liner is alot more forgiving on this than pencil or liquid as it can fill in right up to the lashes thanks to a softer texture).
 Now just whack on some mascara, a step that is only difficult or requiring any tricks if you have crappy mascara -- of course it always requires you to make weird faces, true fact. My favorite is Bad Gal Lash by Benefit but last time I needed mascara Sephora didn't have a trial size (which I have never used up within three months anyway) so this is Maybeline Falsies in Dramatic Black, which is pretty good.
If you are using heavier foundation, at this point you can apply some light, matte pink blush to the apples of your cheeks (a shade that is crazy hard to find after the success of NARS Orgasm and the every-blush-must-be-sparkly craze, in fact the mark blush I was going to suggest no longer comes in the two matte shades, bastards).
For good strong lipstick colors you should always use an lipliner, as this makes the lipstick stay much better and will keep the color from bleeding off of your lips. Try to find something long-wearing in a shade close to your natural lip-color (I know, I know, the beauty industry is so unfair to the pasty that this is the closest I found). I like this one pretty well, it is covergirl outlast smoothwear. Anyway, no tricks here, just draw a strong line at the edge of the natural contours of your lips.  You can also lightly fill in the lips, to make it long wearing but this tens to make it feel less comfortable.
Now all you have to do is fill it in with lipstick. I am using Revlon's Certainly Red. In my opinion Revlon does red lipstick better than anyone else, department stores included, and it's long wearing and doesn't feather. Another big plus is that Revlon lipsticks look on your lips what they look like on the tube, unlike most drugstore brands.  Certainly Red is a strong true red, with no hint of blue or orange tint. If you have very cool coloring or want a more pink/fuchsia leaning shade Cherries in the Snow is the classic '50's shade, and if you have a warmer yellow complexion, try Fire and Ice.
If you do stupidly color outside the lines with your lipstick (like I did), it's no big deal. Just wipe it off and cover with powder. As far as I can tell lip-liner is actually a magic circle and color outside it fades quickly and quietly. Anyway, that's it! You now have a very glamorous fifties look appropriate for the next Man Men party one of your extremely white friends throws, a good very corporate goth look, or the basis for a really sweet diesel-punk outfit, if I may suggest: Robot Jane Mansfield.

The next video shows how to use this slightly demure look as a basis for a fairly intense, sultry, smoky, burgundy evening look.

Okay, to transition the clean fifties look to a darker club or evening look (assuming your lipstick has mostly worn off) take a different non-angled eyeliner brush and pick up a black/charcoal eyeshadow (this is mark corset). Once upon a time I read an interview with the makeup artist from the show Castle in some ladymag saying if you want to do all over black eyeliner use liquid or gel on top and powder or pencil below the eye as the textural difference opens the eye rather than making it look smaller. I have been doing so ever since and Castle makeup artist lady is right! I am going for a smoky thing here so am using powder. Tug at the corner of your eye in an upward fashion to move your bottom lash out of the way and brush along the bottom lash line. This looks good a little messy so it is easy to do.
Next I am using L'Oreal HIP Kohl in Burgundy for the top lash line. I am going to simply brush this along over and slightly above the black gel liner. The only trick here is getting the damn stuff out of the tube. L'Oreal feels that you should just use the applicator which is wedged in like it's mascara but it throws powder all over everywhere. It is okay if you want to re-do your foundation afterwards, but I say balls to that. After trial and error the best way is to drag your eyeliner brush across the applicator after removing it from the tube. Every time I do this I am re-convinced I can just get the powder straight from the tube if I try hard enough, but as you can see that is mere hubris.
Now you are just re-doing your lipstick as before. This time I am using Revlon Black Cherry, and being a little more careful with the application. The finger thing keeps lipstick off your teeth, but looks vaguely pornagraphic (maybe I am just a prude). Speaking of lipstick tricks, it is true that lightly blotting your lipstick onto a tissue makes it wear longer and transfer less, but it is not perfect and you lose the faint luster of good lipstick. I prefer a sealant like Benefit she-laq and four out of five dates agree (the fifth one I think secretly wants to wear lipstick).  Oh, and if you are only concerned about wear not transfer, I find the Revlon looks good for a few hours with nothing done to it at all.
Now I unclip and shake out my bangs, always arrange your bangs after makeup unless your mascara color is a match or your hair color, just saying.

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Anonymous said...

The red lipstick is awesome. Flawless.

Anonymous said...

Thank you! :) I'm really bad at doing my own make-up (always looks sloppy) but I already learned several things from watching you do it.

I'm a big fan of tutorials so thanks again! :)

VictorianKitty (Sophistique Noir) said...

Great tutorial! Thank you for posting it. I love that Black cherry lipstick!! I have a hard time finding the perfect red lipstick for me (they all seem to look too orange once I put them on). I'll definitely have to try both of those Revlon colors. They sure do look amazing on you!! :)

Sabayon said...

Siouxsie -- Thanks so much!

Sal Kaye -- I'm glad you found it useful, I worried I may have gotten a bit too rambly to be comprehensible, but I am really happy to hear you learned something!

VictorianKitty -- Yes it is very hard to find non-orangey red lipstick, I am very not sure why, and thank you for the nice compliment!

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